Golf carts fail when power is wrong. Range drops. Heat rises. Costs grow. I avoid this with simple checks on voltage, capacity, current, safety, and service.
Pick the battery for your cart and course. Match voltage and controller current. Choose deep-cycle chemistry. Verify safety tests. Plan charging. Ask for clear data, warranty, and local support. This protects range, life, and cost.
I learned this on a coastal course. Rentals kept dying on hole 16. The packs were fine. The controller spiked current on hills. I sized a higher-rate pack and tuned limits. The fleet finished with margin.
What battery is in an E-Z-GO golf cart?
Most E-Z-GO carts ship with deep-cycle lead-acid1 in 36 V or 48 V. Many owners now upgrade to 48 V LiFePO42(https://www.reddit.com/r/solar/comments/jqjhg9/what_are_the_pros_and_cons_of_lifepo4_batteries/)[^3] for better life and range.
Expect 36 V (six 6 V) on older carts and 48 V on newer carts (six 8 V or four 12 V). Lithium upgrades use 48 V LiFePO4 packs with a matched BMS and charger. Always check your controller limits.
Typical E-Z-GO configurations
| System voltage | Common lead-acid layout | Lithium upgrade option | Notes I check |
|---|---|---|---|
| 36 V | 6×6 V flooded/AGM | 36 V LiFePO4 pack | Older TXT; confirm tray size |
| 48 V | 6×8 V flooded/AGM | 48 V LiFePO4 pack | TXT/RXV; verify peak current |
| 48 V | 4×12 V flooded/AGM | 48 V LiFePO4 pack | Easier wiring; watch sag |
How I verify fit
- Read the nameplate: controller voltage and max current.
- Measure the tray. Confirm clearance and cable reach.
- Check charger type. Replace for LiFePO4 if needed.
What is the most critical quality of a golf cart battery?
Consistency under load decides everything. The pack must hold voltage on hills and heat.
I rank low internal resistance and stable voltage under peak current as the top quality. Then I look at cycle life at your depth of discharge, and thermal behavior in summer heat.
What I measure first
| Quality | Why it matters | How I check it |
|---|---|---|
| Voltage stability | Prevents cut-outs on hills | 10-second peak tests at payload |
| Internal resistance | Low heat, better power | IR trend over first 100 cycles |
| Thermal control | Keeps range in summer | Temp probes near core cells |
| Cycle life at DoD | Real cost per hour | 80% capacity point vs profile |
A quick field method
I drive the steepest route with full payload. I log current, voltage, and temperature. If sag is high, I upsize current capability before I upsize capacity.
Why do golf carts need deep-cycle batteries?
Golf carts pull steady current for long periods. They do not need a short, sharp start like a car.
Deep-cycle batteries handle repeated long discharges without damage. They support many cycles at 60–80% depth of discharge. Starting batteries deliver quick bursts but age fast in cart duty.
Deep-cycle vs. starting
| Feature | Deep-cycle (flooded/AGM/LiFePO4) | Starting battery (SLI) | Cart impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plate design | Thick plates, steady energy | Thin plates, burst amps | Deep-cycle wins |
| Discharge profile | Long, moderate current | Short, high current | Deep-cycle fits |
| Cycle life at 70% DoD | High | Low | Cost per hour lower |
| Heat tolerance | Better at sustained load | Poor at constant load | Less fade |
My setup tips
- Size capacity so daily DoD stays near 60–80%.
- Use cables and lugs sized for peak current.
- Keep airflow around the pack. Heat kills cycles.
Why are lithium batteries better?
Lithium, especially LiFePO4, is lighter, holds voltage better, and lasts longer. It also charges faster with the right charger.
LiFePO4 cuts weight, improves voltage under load, and reaches 2,000–4,000 cycles with care. Range is more repeatable. Maintenance is low. Upfront cost is higher, but total cost per hour is often lower.
Lithium vs. lead-acid at a glance
| Factor | LiFePO4 | Flooded/AGM lead-acid | What it means on course |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weight | Much lower | Heavy | Better hill speed, less wear |
| Voltage under load | Stable | Sags | Fewer cut-outs |
| Cycle life (to 80%) | 2,000–4,000 | 500–800 (typical) | Fewer replacements |
| Charge time to 80% | 30–60 min (with right charger) | Longer | Faster turnarounds |
| Maintenance | Minimal | Watering/cleaning (flooded) | Less labor |
| Cold charging | Needs >0 °C or heating | More tolerant to charge | Add low-temp protection |
What a good lithium kit includes
- Pack: 48 V LiFePO4 with BMS sized for controller peaks.
- Charger: CC/CV profile, correct voltage, clean connectors.
- Harness: Pre-charge or soft-start to avoid arcing.
- Data: SOC, SOH, cycles, temps over CAN or Bluetooth.
A short story
I upgraded a hilly course to LiFePO4. Each cart lost 90 lb. Range became steady even on windy days. The owner cut replacement buys for three seasons. Mechanics loved the simple checks.
Conclusion
Match voltage and current. Prioritize stable voltage. Choose deep-cycle. Go LiFePO4 when total cost and uptime matter.
